Queen of Gemstones

Due to its exceptionality Opal has always been well represented in private collections around the globe.

The mysterious 'Queen of Gemstones' is synonymous with graceful power, beauty and rarity.

Reflective of Roman Glory

Pliny the Elder tells the story of how Nonius (a Senator of the Roman Republic), owned a fabulous Opal known throughout the civilised world of his day. The stone was set in a ring, it is said to have been the size and shape of a hazelnut.

Roman General and Triumvir Mark Antony was so entranced by the moving lights within Nonius' stone his fascination led him to covet the stone which he sought as a gift for his lover Goddess-Queen Cleopatra VII of Egypt (30-69BC).

Antony offered Nonius several times the 2,000,000 Sesterces at which the Opal ring had been appraised, perhaps even the price of a villa on one of the seven hills of Rome in 35BC. Nonius refused to sell it, declaring it was his life. Mark Antony made him an offer he could not refuse and proscribed the Senator. Nonius preferred to be banished from Rome losing all he owned, leaving behind his wife and family, though fleeing with his most highly prized possession.

Why would a man like Mark Antony make so much trouble over an Opal?

To set the scene one must go back further to 42 BC; Antony summoned Cleopatra to a meeting in Tarsus, present-day Turkey, so she could explain why Egypt had not supported him in the Roman civil war against Caesar’s murderers.

Now that her lover and supporter Julius Caesar was dead, Cleopatra needed Mark Antony’s approval and she set about getting it the way she knew best: with a meticulously planned seduction. She sailed towards him up the Cydnus River in a scented, candlelit golden barge with purple sails, whereupon she invited him to dinner.

“He found the preparations made to receive him magnificent beyond words,” Plutarch wrote, “but what astonished him most was the extraordinary number of lights…So many of these, it is said, were let down from the roof and displayed on all sides at once, and they were arranged and grouped in such ingenious patterns in relation to each other, some in squares and some in circles, that they created as brilliant a spectacle as can ever have been devised to delight the eye.” Plutarch

An eleven year love affair ensued, which became all consuming and fired the lovers with the ambition to create a new world order. They were the ancient world’s most famous celebrity couple.

Therein lies the reason Antony wanted the Senator’s Opal more than any of the innumerable treasures in Rome - it reminded him of the atmosphere in which his mind and body were fatefully seduced – the fiery Opal made light dance in ingeniously mesmerizing patterns around its emboldened beholder.

Why would a respected Senator of the Roman Republic give up all his worldly possessions bar one?

Unlike an animal whose instinct would cause it to bite off a limb in order to free itself from the hunters trap and the danger of death.

Such is the fatal attraction of Opal that men lose all reason when seduced by her charms!

Symbol of Regency...

Opals became a sine qua non of royal and aristocratic dress in Renaissance England. Queen Elizabeth I (1533-1603) and indeed members of the Elizabethan nobility, wore lavish parures of Opal.

On New Year's Day 1584, the Queen was delighted to receive a splendid set of matching opal jewellery from one of her favourite courtiers, Sir Christopher Hatton. In gratitude for this she arranged for the palace of Ely, near Holborn, to be let to him at a token rent by the Bishops of Ely. Incidentally the area today is known as Hatton Garden and has been London's jewelry quarter since the 1870's.

The English Queen used precious gems as objects of diplomacy, in her public appearances she would be seen bedecked with pearls and stones giving an overpowering impression of opulence and regal dignity. During the reign of Elizabeth it was written:

"Optallio is called Oppalus also, and this stone bredeth in Inde and is deemed to have as many virtues as hiews and colors."

...Loyalty & Heroism

Sir Francis Drake (1543-1596) is considered the most famous of the heroes and navigators of Britain’s illustrious maritime history. The first Englishman to sail around the world, he fought the Spanish on numerous occasions defeating the Armada in 1588.

Queen Elizabeth I conferred a knighthood on him, decreeing his ship the Golden Hind a national monument. As a token of her thanks, around 1579, the Queen gave Sir Drake an Opal and ruby hatpin as a memento for the jewels he purloined for her on the Spanish main.

The 'Sun Jewel' was worn by Sir Francis Drake on his hat. It has at its centre a ruby engraved with an intaglio orb, surrounded by Opals within a diamond and Opal border. This is framed by straight and curved rays alternately enameled red and set with rubies. On the back of the jewel is a miniature of Elizabeth I of England. The orb, which is emblematic of sovereignty, may allude to Elizabeth, or to Drake’s historic circumnavigation of the world.

Sir Bevil Grenville (1596–1643), Royalist soldier in the English Civil War. Grandson of Sir Richard Grenville, Elizabethan sailor, explorer, and soldier. Educated at Oxford, Bevil was a Member of Parliament, and the most generally loved man in Cornwall.

According to the Encyclopædia Britannica: "Grenville was the type of all that was best in royalism. He was neither rapacious, drunken nor dissolute, but his loyalty was unselfish, his life pure and his skill no less than his bravery unquestionable." He valiantly led the Cornish infantry to victory at Stratton but fell at Lansdown, near Bath. His soldiers refused to fight under any other leader and returned home, carrying the body of Sir Bevil which was buried in a tomb in Kilkhampton Church.

The 'Grenville' Jewel which bore his portrait is one of few existant pieces of the period. It is important as it demonstrates that the English, who set the fashions in the 16th century, were indeed fond and avid users of Opal in the formal ceremonial style jewellery of the day.

By Royal Appointment

Louis XVI (1754-1793) wore an Opal finger-ring befitting the illustriously luxuriant Court he held with his queen at Versailles. Indeed Marie Antoinette owned a famous flame Opal known as the 'Forest Fire'.

The effulgence of Versailles had spread all over Europe during the second half of the seventeenth century, by the eighteenth century Paris dictated the fashions and French jewellers became ever more influential.

Jeanne Thérèse Tellez d'Acosta, was betrothed to the Count of Rochambeau in 1749. Her husband Jean-Baptiste Donatien de Vimeur, the Maréchal de Rochambeau (1725-1807), was a brilliant commander who swiftly rose through the ranks of the French military during the reigns of Louis XV and Louis XVI. He most admirably went to North America to support the colonists in their revolt against England; there he seconded George Washington, thus contributing to the surrender at Yorktown in 1781. The Count’s personality and decisive role in the War of Independence inspired the French branch of the Daughters of the American Revolution to name their chapter in his honour.

Towards the end of the eighteenth century, for his wife the Maréchale de Rochambeau, the Count acquired an attractive necklace of 34 Opals mounted in brilliants, this was somewhat exotic when compared to the mostly diamond jewellery worn by her high society fellows.

Queen Charlotte (1744-1818) consort of King George III of England, acquired a marvelous Opal ring around 1810. Charlotte was a patron of the Arts, the founder of several orphanages and a hospital for expectant mothers. Mozart dedicated his Opus 3 to her.

She was a contemporary relation and penpal of Marie Antoinette, their passion for finery including Opals was shared even though they never met. The Opal ring passed to the Queen’s daughter Princess Mary, Duchess of Gloucester, who later bequeathed it to her niece Queen Victoria in 1849.

When Napoleon I, Bonaparte (1769-1821) presented his Empress Josephine de Beauharnais with a blazing red Opal known as the ‘Burning of Troy’. France was at the height of her power. Befitting her court Josephine wore what was the largest (700cts) and most valuable Opal in the world with great relish and frequency. Napoleon chose it he said, because she was his Helen. Just as he modelled himself on the Romans he may well have wished to emulate the passion of the ancients for this most glorious of gems.

In the past the success of a jeweller hinged on a royal appointment. There simply was no better endorsement. Every Royal had their favourite. For Napoleon it was Etienne Nitot, the precursor of Chaumet, a jeweller known for his grand trappings that matched the imperial style of the first Empire.

To his second wife Austrian Archduchess Marie Louise of the House of Habsburg, with whom he fathered an heir; Napoleon gave an extensive suite of Opal jewellery.

French actress Mademoiselle Mars (1779-1847), began her stage career, spanning half a century, in children's parts and played many comedy roles in over a hundred parts. The illustrious member of the Comédie-Française whose beauty and talents soon placed her at the top of her profession wore a fashionable array of jewels. Of the kind to be worn en demi-toilette was a sévigné in coloured gold with a burnt topaz in the centre surrounded by large brilliants, with three Opal drops similarly set, the gold studded with rubies and pearls; and a very complete parure of Opals set in gold studded with small emeralds.

Queen Victoria (1819-1901) was a lover and advocate of Opal. Her royal highness helped popularise Opal around the turn of the century, it was no coincidence that Opals were the quintessential gemstone of the Art Nouveau period. Victoria was enamoured of jewellery and regularly adorned herself with Opals which Prince Albert gave her.

In 1863 Her Majesty in the name of HRH the Prince Consort and the Queen gave Princess Alexandra of Denmark a suite of Opal jewellery as a wedding gift. It consisted of a cross, a bracelet, a pendant, a pair of earrings and three brooches. Prince Albert drew the designs for the jewels which were executed by Garrard and Co. Princess Alexandra wore the opal and diamond bracelet from this parure on her wedding day.

The royal couple gave Opals to each of their five daughters and to many of their friends and subjects.

Prince Albert (1819-1861) was the husband and consort of Queen Victoria and a significant influence on his wife. The Queen never recovered from his premature death. Victoria and Albert were very much in love and together started a long affair with jewellery. Prince Albert was fond of designing jewelry and often designed jewellery for his beloved Victoria. The Oriental Circlet tiara was also designed by him and set with Opal which was Prince Albert's favorite stone.

The Prince of Wales presented an exceptional Opal parure to his eldest sister, Victoria, when she married the Crown Prince of Prussia in 1858.

Upon her marriage in 1862, Princess Alice received an opal and diamond suite from her late father consisting of a cross, two brooches and a pair of earrings which were made by Garrard and Co.

Elisabeth of Bavaria (1837–1898) was Empress of Austria and Queen of Hungary, Croatia and Bohemia, as spouse of Emperor Francis Joseph I. The legendary “Sissi,” as she was called, is the most famous of Austria’s empresses and has become a 20th century icon.

Considered to be a free spirit who abhorred conventional court protocol, she has inspired filmmakers and theatrical producers alike and was portrayed by Ava Gardner in the 1968 Hollywood movie Mayerling. Not only was Elisabeth known for her beauty, but also for her fashion sense, diet and exercise regimens, passion for riding sports, and a series of reputed lovers. She was at times estranged from her husband and restlessly travelled through Europe. Sissi knew Greek better than any of the Bavarian Greek Queens in the 19th century and on Corfu island she commissioned the building of a castle which she called Achilleion. She always sympathised with the Hungarian cause and loved Hungary far more than Austria or her country of birth.

Fittingly amongst her most beautiful jewels were a parure of Hungarian Opals and diamonds, comprising a necklace, a diadem and a pair of earrings which Sissi received as a wedding gift from her mother-in-law Archduchess Sophie.

Fine Taste & Good Fortune: The Hallmarks of Remarkable Individuals

Sir Thomas Brassey (1836-1918), 1st Earl Brassey, was the son of a self-made millionaire, who had a passionate love for the sea and cruised on his intercontinental yacht, ‘The Sunbeam’, as often as he could.

His first wife, Lady Anna Brassey (1839 - 1887), the daughter of an aristocrat, wrote several charming books including The Last Voyage to India and Australia, in the 'Sunbeam' 1886 – 1887 which recounts Australia’s first precious sedimentary Opal find near Blackall Queensland in 1869. Lady Brassey recorded their celebrated voyages around the world on the yacht, which carried about fifty people including the family, the crew, friends, and a complete domestic staff. This was her last voyage as she died of malaria and was buried at sea before the book was completed. Her husband completed the book apologetically with an appendix that briefly recounts the remainder of the journey.

Lady Sybil de Vere Brassey, daughter of Lord Malden, was Brassey’s second wife, together they spent five years in Melbourne he as Governor of Victoria and she was a gracious hostess who made herself popular with the women of the city. Lady Sybil is credited with having founded 'The Children's Protection Society' an initiative to save children from abuse and neglect. The couple were regular visitors to New York where it was noted in The New York Times 1906, that the young and handsome Lady Brassey was fond of Opals, of which she possessed a superb parure. In London the couple lived in a town house on Park Lane which housed an extensive collection of curiosities and jewels including Opals.

Parure means adornment in French, from the verb parer, to adorn. Beyond various items of matching jewellery, a parure is an entire wardrobe, or suite, of matching jewellery; which rose to popularity in 17th century Europe. Reserved for royalty and the wealthier classes, no woman was considered socially acceptable without a complete wardrobe of jewellery that defined her status, strength and political power. A matching suite of coordinated pieces could include a necklace, a comb, a tiara, a diadem, a bandeau, a pair of bracelets, pins, rings, drop earrings or cluster stud earrings, brooch and a belt clasp that might be worn over a fine gown.

John Davison Rockefeller (1839–1937), the industrialist who founded Standard Oil and revolutionised the petroleum industry. J.D. Rockefeller became America's first billionaire and the world's richest man. He is often regarded as the richest person in history and as having defined the structure of modern philanthropy.

J.D. Rockefeller adhered to total abstinence from alcohol and tobacco throughout his life. However he was taken by the alluring charms of Opal and had to have the mesmerising 'Fire Queen' Opal for which he paid £75,000, hitherto a record for an Opal.

Isabel Gray (c.1851-1929), the legendary ‘Eulo Queen’ was a notorious hotelier, Opal collector and advocate. She spoke fluent French and German and had been educated in Switzerland before she arrived in Australia in 1868.

By 1886 Isabel and her second husband Richard William Robinson were hotel-keepers at Eulo (on the Paroo River) in Southwestern Queensland, an important Cobb & Co. staging post between Cunnamulla and Thargomindah and the coach junction from Hungerford. A few years later they had obtained the freehold, hotel and billiard licences of the Royal Mail Hotel and acquired the Empire Hotel. They also ran a store and butcher's shop in Eulo and thus controlled most of the town’s economy. Eulo had fast become a gathering-place for travellers, graziers, Opal miners and merchants.

An astute businesswoman; Isabel became a shrewd dealer in Opals - particularly from the burgeoning Opal fields nearby at Duck Creek, Yowah and Koroit. She even engaged a German Opal cutter to process the gems. It was not uncommon for her to advance sufficient money or goods from her store to anyone she thought worthy so as to keep them Opal mining. Conversely, she might make sure a miner had spent the value of his parcel of Opal and then oust the lingering drunk from her premises.

Although short in stature, Isabel was a voluptous beauty possessed of great sex appeal, she was ‘larger than life’ and desirable to men of all ages. A complacent husband enabled her to operate as a successful courtesan. A good stock of liquor and attractive young females helped her entertain groups of gentlemen with conversation, gambling and more intimate entertainment. In 1902 Robinson died and in 1903 Isabel married 29-year-old Tasmanian, Herbert Victor Gray, she was 53 yet claimed to be 35.

Opals were the key to her heart; the 'Eulo Queen' was captivated by these fiery gems, which she actively promoted as currency and for adornment. Her collection included a magnificent necklace, armlets, rings, pendants, an Opal studded belt and a fantastic girdle of large opals set alternately with nautilus shells.

Rene Lalique (1860-1945) having won a Grand Prix for his display at the Exposition Universelle of 1900, was named ‘The creator of the modern jewel’ by fellow jeweller Emile Galle.

"Thanks to him the Jewel is art once more." said his author and jeweller peer Henri Vever of him.

The most famous jeweller of the Belle Epoque he was courted by world leaders. Jeweller to the libertine courtesans La Belle Otero and Liane de Pougy as to the Countesses de Bearn and Béhague and the serious Madame Waldeck-Rousseau. Lalique designed stage jewellery for actresses Marguerite Moreno, Julia Bartet and the divine Sarah Bernhardt.

Because he loved Opal most amongst gemstones Robert de Montesquiou (aesthete and critic) dedicated the Eighth gem of his Les Paons to Lalique who designed the book’s cover.

"I know a jeweller in love with opals, The purest diamond would tempt him in vain, He will only carve the gem of pale fire, Whose iridescence has chosen him for its lover."

Liane de Pougy (1869-1950) was a renowned Folies Bergères dancer and considered one of the most desirable courtesans in nineteenth century Paris.

In 1920 Liane de Pougy married a Romanian Prince named Georges Ghika, as a Princess she lived an elegant life. Rene Lalique’s Opal-studded jewels would invariably grace her dressing table if not her bosom.

Gay Paris

In 1899, Liane de Pougy met the first great love of her life, Natalie Clifford-Barney. Barney was a wealthy American heiress who was gaining a reputation as a writer. The two women flouted their lesbian affair in the face of French society. It was quite a delicious scandal.

That year, Rene Lalique at the request of Liane de Pougy and poet  Renée Vivien – created several jewels for Natalie Clifford-Barney. Their dominant note is struck by enamels, moonstones and Opals (usually blue to match Natalie’s eyes) and the subjects dear to Art Nouveau jewelry (a circle of bats, dragons, fighting cocks).

Barney later wrote a best-selling, tell all book about their affair – Idylle Sapphique. 

Next lover in turn Renée Vivien would cover Barney with treasures signed Lalique: "She made me wear them on my neck, my arms, my fingers and my ankles."- Souvenirs Indiscrets

Opal Persona

Olive Custance (1874-1950) was born to a distinguished (wealthy, landed, and proper) British family. By her teenage years, she seemed determined to be a part of London's literary culture. She met John Gray, the artist who would become Oscar Wilde's lover and fell in love with him when she was sixteen, they maintained a lively correspondence for years, during which he gave her feedback on some of her early poetry. Olive began contributing to trendy London periodical The Yellow Book and also contributed her poetry to the Savoy and the Living Age, building a reputation for her loveliness and considerable wit.

Olive's first book of poetry, Opals, was published by John Lane in 1900. Well-received critically, it managed to win her quite a few fans, including American expat writer and "leading lesbian of her time" Natalie Clifford Barney. Barney bought a copy of Opals while she was in London and was so enchanted by it that she wrote to Olive and invited her to come to Paris and form a "Sapphic circle" of female writers, an offer which Olive was glad to accept.

Emily Fargo author of ‘Wild Olive: The Life & Work of Olive Custance’ identifies Olive Custance's literary persona as "Opal" because that was the nickname adopted by Olive in her literary circle of friends.

One of Olive's signatures was Opal jewelry, which she wore to mock the superstition that the stones brought bad luck.

The unique, transfixing beauty and mischievous attitude towards fate that Olive's interest in Opals embodied was an integral part of her "Opal" persona.

Several of her verses cast her as a young princess:  lovely, idealistic, and innocent.  This was a role she played in her social life in London as well, charming many of the city's young men with her "flower-like loveliness" as described by fellow poet Richard Le Gallienne.

Sarah Bernhardt (1844-1923) was the most famous actress of her time; she scandalized and titillated Paris by wearing pants and taking men's roles in some of her plays. In the US she was coveted by the press and received in every city as an ambassador of style. Sarah frequently wore Opal which was her birthstone and highly regarded within her circle. The distinguished stage actress, who later pioneered the movie-making era, was a great patroness and inspiration to her fellow artists, Henri Vever, Rene Lalique and the decorative painter Alphonse Mucha. Sarah commissioned this ruby-eyed snake bracelet and ring (hathphul), inlaid with Opals, for her 1890 premiere as Cleopatra. Mulcha provided the sketches of this extraordinary jewel executed by George Fouquet. Bernhardt has a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame at 1751 Vine St.

Gustav Klimt (1862–1918) the Austrian Symbolist painter was one of the most prominent members of the 'Vienna Secession' - Art Nouveau movement. His major works include paintings, murals and sketches. Klimt's primary subject was the female body, his works are highly decorative and marked by a frank eroticism. He was a frequent client of the Wiener Werkstatte, a guild of fellow secessionists, from whom he acquired numerous pieces of jewellery for his female companions and himself. He had a particular fondness for opal which Wiener Werkstatte used extensively, his close female friend and dress designer Emile Floge shared this passion and was the glorious recipient of numerous Opal jewels by Josef Hoffmann et al.

Patronage of Art & Opals

Oil tycoon Calouste Gulbenkian (1869-1955) was one of the richest men of his time and was well resourced to be one of the greatest private collectors of all time. Apart from his insistence that any acquisition be "only the best," Gulbenkian required that all his objects have a classical orientation, whether it be coinage, paintings or sculpture, jewelry or ceramics. Gulbenkian commissioned 146 artworks by Rene Lalique between 1895-1910; Dozens of jewels in the collection contain Opal and they are now housed in the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon, Portugal.

Henry Walters (1848-1931) was the successful president of the Atlantic Railway Company who retired in 1902 and became focused on the collection his father had bequeathed to him in 1894. Walters envisaged a museum that would fulfill an educational role within the community and to this end he made a series of astute acquisitions including the purchase of the entire collection of Lalique jewelry on display at the World's Fair in Saint Louis, Missouri in 1904. Henry Walters died in 1931, leaving the Palazzo style building, which now houses the Walters Art Museum, and the extensive family collection to the city of Baltimore "for the benefit of the public." The jewels by Lalique on display at the museum include several compositions made with Crystal Opals and Fire Opals.

Dame Nellie Melba (1861-1931) was born Helen Porter Mitchell in Richmond, Victoria. The two and-a-half-octave soprano made her debut as Nellie Melba in Rigoletto in Brussels in October 1887. Dame Nellie went on to become one of the world's biggest opera stars. In 1903 Louis Cartier created a magnificent heart-shaped opal pendant for the celebrated Australian soprano. Dame Nellie and fellow Australian soprano Elsa Stralia (Elsie Fischer) were recipients of Opal gifts from Percy Marks. As a special tribute Melba received a bouquet containing a rare black Opal mounted in platinum by Marks.

Percy Marks (1879-1935) designed and distributed Lightning Ridge Black Opal jewellery and Opal exotica to a roll call of international visitors, major and minor aristocracy as well as Australian celebrities. By the time of his death in 1935, Australian Opal was celebrated in poetry and dance as well as in settings. Amongst his earliest bequests was a “…[conductor’s] baton made of Australian wood, mounted in  gold and set with rare Black Opals” presented to “March King”, John Phillip Sousa, during his Australian tour in 1911. When Amy Johnson, the British pioneer aviator flew from the UK to Australia in 1930, her landing was received with fanfare and an Opal brooch from Percy Marks.

Amy Johnson set off in her single engine Gypsy Moth from Croydon on May 5. She landed in Darwin on May 24, 1930. Having completed an epic flight of 11,000 miles she became the first woman to fly solo to Australia. The aviatrix landed in Quilpie 'Capital of Boulder Opal’ en route to Brisbane. Quilpie’s Airport Terminal now bears her name and the monumental display in her honour is a significant tourist attraction.

Father of the Australian Opal Industry

Tully Cornwaithe Wollaston (1863-1931) was Australian Opal’s greatest champion. He pioneered all the Opal fields of Australia in his time and bought the majority of the miners’ product encouraging them to continue the search. He took Australian Opal to the Empire Exhibition in London, and to Europe and the United States. Wollaston had a close working relationship with E.F.(Ted) Murphy who was regarded as the greatest full-time Opal buyer on the fields of White Cliffs and Lightning Ridge in their times. Tully's incredible energy and his passion for the stone brought Opal to the modern world’s attention. An accomplished gardener and impassioned father, poet and author of ‘The Spirit of the Child’ and ‘Opal: The Gem of the Never-Never’.

The du Pont family, one of the most prominent American families, descend from French nobility having emigrated to the United States in 1800. Initially establishing a gun-powder manufactory which has become a giant in the chemicals industry and one of the world’s most successful companies. Various members of the family managed DuPont corporation well into the twentieth century and still retain substantial ownership. In 1967 the 43 carat ‘Sydney Queen’ and two other exceptional pear shaped Black Opals were sold by celebrity jeweller Raymond C.Yard to the du Pont family. Fifth generation family member Samuel Hallock du Pont (1901-1974) was so thrilled by these rare gemstones he had to have the lot and later commissioned several Opal jewels by Yard.

Gypsy Rose Lee (1911-1970), the greatest burlesque queen of all time collected 19th century paintings, furniture and jewellery. Lee owned a stunning Opal-laden ‘Aztec’ necklace by Tiffany. Her second husband William Alexander Kirkland gave her an equally remarkable Mexican fire Opal bracelet for her 40th birthday on January 9 1954. These two stunning Opal jewels by Tiffany were cornerstones of the collection of a lady who put the "tease" into "striptease". An accomplished actress, author and playwright, whose 1957 memoir was made into the stage musical and film Gypsy.

....the lady who put the "tease" into "striptease"!

Barbara Hutton (1912-1979) married seven times, including several aristocrats, a Prince and actor Cary Grant. She passed away with very little money in her estate, however the socialite granddaughter heiress of Frank Woolworth, founder of Woolworths, had retained most of her remarkable collection of jewellery rich in fine gemstones including Opals and stylish designs which represented not only her wealth but her appreciation for beauty. Barbara was a great client of Cartier, she was noted by friends and jewellers as being extremely knowledgeable having spent hours holding, studying and admiring each piece she had collected.

One of two strands of pearls in the Hutton collection, both were supplied and set with Black Opal pendant enhancers by Cartier.

Doris Duke (1912–1993) With apologies to Clint Eastwood, the American heiress is the original "million-dollar baby". The only daughter of tobacco and energy magnate, James Buchanan Duke who passed away when Doris was 13. She became one of the richest and most independent young women in the world. An avid horticulturalist, art collector and philanthropist, she was extremely well travelled and spoke nine languages. She was married twice, to James Cromwell and the Dominican playboy Porfirio Rubirosa. Her company was sought by the likes of Errol Flynn, Truman Capote, Elvis Presley, and Jackie O.

Although she was a savvy businesswoman and eventually donated upwards of $400 million to charities, she was lavish when it came to couture and jewellery - which she loved. At six feet tall, with wavy blonde hair, a pronounced jaw, and piercing blue eyes, she was a designer's dream.

Doris' taste in jewellery was interesting and unusual, she continued to buy jewels up until her death. Within her vast collection were several items of Opal jewellery including an Opal ring. In 1969, using her own stones, she ordered an Opal bead necklace and matching earrings from David Webb.
Doris has been portrayed in a TV mini-series starring Lauren Bacall and a film Bernard & Doris, starring Susan Sarandon. The Doris Duke Charitable Foundation continues to support social, cultural and health-related programs today.

In modern times perhaps no other culture has coveted Opals as the Japanese have, in the 1990’s they paid the highest prices on record for Black and Boulder Opals, as much as $15,000 per carat wholesale. In Japan, Opals are a well known and a much loved gemstone. The word has been naturalised into the Japanese language as ‘Oparu’ with a long drawn out second syllable conferring honour and affection on these marvellous gemstones.

Takeshi Oyama (1950-2007), Také to his mates, built the largest ever Opal trading corporation Bentine from scratch. At its height Bentine employed over 250 people in Australia and Japan and turned-over $100m per annum, putting it in the top 50 private Australian companies for several years. Také-san loved Opal and was instrumental in marketing Opal to the Japanese and in the development of Japanese tourism in Australia. Také had a big heart, a courageous spirit, with the uncanny ability to bridge the cultural divide. He also had a deep appreciation of and great respect for the indigenous culture of Australia. Much loved and missed by his family, friends and admirers. RIP

Elvis Presley -The King's Opal Ring....

The' King of Rock and Roll' wore this chunky 1970's 14k gold ring featuring a solid Crystal Opal cabochon surrounded by 1.25ct of diamonds. Originally purchased by Elvis at Thunderbird Jewelers in Las Vegas during the early 1970's, the 'King' wore his Opal ring both on and off stage. A color photograph shows Elvis wearing the ring on his pinkie finger whilst on stage at the Las Vegas Hilton in July of 1974, the King was donning a straw hat with a banner reading "Elvis for President."

Not the first time Opal has captured the heart of a King!!!

Dr. Archie Kalokerinos (1927-2012) the author of In search of Opal and Australian Precious Opal and an internationally acclaimed authority on Opal. Awarded the Australian Medal of Merit in 1978 for 'outstanding scientific research'. Kalokerinos authored a book with profound orthomolecular medicinal implications entitled Every Second Child, as well as many scientific papers. In 2000 he was awarded the title Greek Australian of the Century by the Melbourne-based Greek newspaper Neos Kosmos. Archie held controversial opinions on a number of medical issues. He supported and was endorsed by Nobel Peace Laureate Linus Pauling; As many deadly diseases result from overproduction of free radicals, Kalokerinos discovered and demonstrated they can be prevented or cured with Vitamin C, often necessarily administered intravenously in high doses. Kalokerinos was an Honorary Medical Advisor for Aboriginal Health of which he had long been a champion.

Laurence Hope (born 1927) grew up in Sydney, he began painting at an early age and by the age of five displayed maturity beyond his years. The Australian artist is best known for his Lover, Dreamers and Isolates paintings which explored themes of solitude, introspection and frailty. Charles Blackman was a childhood friend, reaquainted as young adults the two lived, travelled and painted together in the mid 1940’s. After travelling widely across Europe, Hope moved to London in 1963 where he has resided ever since. There he met up with expatriate friends - Charles Blackman, Barbara Blackman, John Perceval, Arthur Boyd and Barry Humphries. In 1969 Hope played a gangster alongside Germaine Greer in the Philippe Mora film Trouble in Melopolis.

In 1970 Laurence Hope composed a photograph of himself pouring over an Opal with Andy Warhol (1928-1987) at a reception in Houses of Parliament in London. Laurence Hope was showing the American Pop artist the Opal pendant he wears to this day.

“[Warhol] fell in love with it, now collects them.”

In 1977 his exhibition Opal the Rainbow Gem at the ICA in London featured photos of the gemstone taken through a microscope. Hope is well represented in public and private collections, including the National Gallery of Australia, National Gallery of Victoria, Art Gallery of South Australia, Queensland Art Gallery, Heide Museum of Modern Art and Queensland University Art Museum.

US Media mogul and founder of CNN, Ted Turner famously gave actress Jane Fonda a massive Black Opal engagement ring by Tiffany in 1990.

They have each been married thrice now!

Opal is Jane Fonda's favourite gemstone.

Singer Sheryl Crowe has two Opal rings by Gurhan who has developed a cult celebrity following for his classic style with a contemporary edge.

Victoire de Castellane, zany creative director of Dior Fine Jewelry, prefers huge coloured stones that make a statement instead of diamonds.

She sports a satellite-dish-size Opal ring.

Among her illustrious ancestors are Counts of Provence, Knights of the First Crusade, French ambassadors to Constantinople and Archbishops. Her grandmother was Sylvia Hennessy of the Cognac fortune whose best friend was Barbara Hutton. "One day my mother took me to see Barbara. She was at the end of her life but she still looked fabulous in a caftan and big jewels. I was just transfixed.”

Taken from Harpers Bazaar interview by Jamie Huckbody.

“I am crazy about Australian Opals. They look artificial but are completely natural. You get every colour in one stone; that’s economic, non? And the colours are so fluorescent; they’re very strange, almost like a rainbow.” When told that Australians are generally prone to cringing at opals she is shocked. “If they don’t want them, please give them to me. I’ll do an exchange. I’ll have a big chunk of it.”

Di Morrisey is an acclaimed Australian author who has written 20 books in as many years.

Her latest, THE OPAL DESERT, was released on October 25th 2011, to coincide with the month of Opal - Official Birthstone for October. The story of three women from different generations with unresolved issues in their lives who meet in the fictitious NSW town of Opal Lake. The stunning book cover is fitting portrayal by the iconic Lightning Ridge artist John Murray.

Morrissey loves Australia and its treasures, she is an advocate for the National Gemstone which she wears proudly and profusely.

Check out her website www.dimorrissey.com NOTE* the author is wearing an Opal pendant!

Sources & Image Credits:

A HISTORY OF JEWELLERY: 1100-1870, Joan Evans, 1970 (2nd Ed.). (Drake's Sun Jewel c.1579; Mlle Mars)

A JOURNEY WITH COLOUR Vol II Part B, A HISTORY OF LIGHTNING RIDGE, Len Cram, 2004.(The 'Fire Queen' aka. 'Dunstan's Stone')

Australian Dictionary of Biography: Adb.online.anu.edu/biogs; (Eulo Queen, Messers Brassey)

En.Wikipedia.org (Empress Elisabeth)

FAMOUS JEWELRY COLLECTORS, Stefano Papi & Alexandra Rhodes, 1999.

GEMS & JEWELLERY, Ove Dragsted, 1975. (Marie Antoinette's 'Forest Fire')

GEMS & JEWELRY TODAY, Marcus Baerwald and Tom Mahoney, 1949. (Romans)

GEMS AND JEWELS - A CONNOISSEUR'S GUIDE, Benjamin Zucker, 1984.
refers to A HISTORY OF JEWELLERY 1100-1870 by Joan Evans and PRINCELY MAGNIFICENCE by E.A. Jobbins. (4)

www.gurhan.com (Jennifer Aniston, Sheryl Crow)

HOLLYWOOD JEWELS, Penny Proddow Debra Healy & Marion Fasel, 1992.

JEWELRY 7000 YEARS, Hugh Tait (ed), 1991. (Grenville jewel)

JEWELS: A SECRET HISTORY, Victoria Finlay, 2006. (Pliny-Nonius-Marc Antony, Napoleon, Sir Francis Drake, Sir Christopher Hatton)

LALIQUE, Jesse McDonald, 1995.

People.com, November 26 1990, Vol 34 No21.(Jane Fonda & Ted Turner)

QUEENS' JEWELS, Vincent Meylan, 2002.

RENE LALIQUE: EXCEPTIONAL JEWELRY, 1890-1912, Yvonne Brunhammer, 2007.

ROYAL JEWELS; FROM CHARLEMAGNE TO THE ROMANOVS, Diana Scarisbrick, Christophe Vachaudez & Jan Walgrave, 2008. (Sir Francis Drake)

Telegraph.co.uk/culture/3609986/gwyneth-in-love.html

THE ENGRAVED GEMS OF CLASSICAL TIMES, John Henry Middleton. 1891. (2,000,000 Secterces)

The London Independent, August 14, 2004. (Brad & Jennifer)

The New York Times, May 20, 1906, Sunday Magazine Section - 'Gowns Seen at May Weddings' by Marie Weldon

THE QUEEN'S JEWELS - THE PERSONAL COLLECTION OF ELIZABETH II, Leslie Field, 1987.

TULLIE CORNWAITHE WOLLASTON, D.P.T Wollaston, 1994.

WIENER WERKSTATTE JEWELRY, Hatje Cantz, 2008.

THE EULO QUEEN, painting by Dorothy Gauvin (black & white taken from original in colour)

YARD: THE LIFE & MAGNIFICENT JEWELRY OF RAYMOND C. YARD, Natasha Kuzmanovic, 2007. (du Pont)

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laurence_Hope_(artist)

theage.com.au/articles/2002/03/19/1015909939071.html (Laurence Hope)

http://art.thewalters.org/viewwoa.aspx?id=23250

www.francetoday.com/articles/2011/01/16/lalique.html

www.turgingsomedrama.com/wildolive/opal.htm (Olive Custance -'Opal')

www.dhub.org/articles/1373